工具部分

[Page 550] # Lesson One: Tools Section (January 1981) This lesson is the beginning. We start from the basics, focusing first on the main tools for making Yixing pottery. "Tools" are implements that must be used in order to do good work. In our Yixing pottery craft, we need many, many tools. As craft requirements change, the tools adapt accordingly. These tools are generally made, processed, and maintained by ourselves. Therefore, from a technical perspective, "if you cannot make tools, you cannot make good products." To be able to maintain tools, you must first understand the requirements for using some of the most basic tool-making tools. The most basic tools referred to here are: the "bevel chisel," "carving knife" (including flat chisels, half-round chisels, rat-tail chisels, etc.), "steel saw," and "grinding knife." These are the tools we use to make production tools. > As the old saying goes: "A craftsman who wishes to do good work must first sharpen his tools." This illustrates the importance of tools. Once we have the implements (referring to tools—chisels, knives, saws) for making production tools, such as bevel chisels, carving knives, and steel saws, we must understand how to sharpen the bevel chisel, how to use and maintain the carving knife, and how to install saw blades in the steel saw. Otherwise, we cannot use these tools and cannot bring out their effectiveness. **Bevel chisel** — This is very important for making our production tools; we use it frequently to make spouts, handles, ribs, and other components. For a bevel chisel to work well, it must first be properly sharpened. When sharpening a new bevel chisel, the first opening and grinding must be done carefully. The flat surface must be absolutely flat, and the beveled surface must have no curves. When grinding, first grind the flat surface, then grind the beveled surface. After the blade angle and cutting edge are formed, polish the flat surface and it's done. The above refers to sharpening a new bevel chisel. Afterward, when sharpening the bevel chisel, you only need to first grind the beveled surface, then polish the flat surface. However, pay attention to the following points: the sharpening stone must be flat, the force applied must be steady, and the chisel edge should not be ground like a kitchen knife. When using the bevel chisel, pay attention to safety. When cutting, push forward with your shoulder and pull back with your hand, keeping the force steady. This way, you won't damage the sharp chisel edge due to excessive force, and you can safely master and use it. [Page 551] # On Tool Maintenance Sharp tools prevent accidents. **Scrapers** — Scrapers come in various specifications, with teeth ranging from coarse to fine. One must develop the habit of caring for tools. After using a scraper, immediately brush away clay debris. This is especially important when working with fresh, tender bamboo, to prevent rust and corrosion. Additionally, scrapers should not come into contact with water to avoid rusting and dulling of the teeth. **Hacksaw** — Hacksaw blades come in coarse and fine teeth. When installing the blade, the teeth should face forward—never reverse this. The blade must be installed straight and properly aligned; otherwise, it will break easily. The above discusses several tools we need for our work. Below, we will discuss several of the most basic tools used in production and their requirements. 1. **Mallet**: The mallet face must be rough; it cannot simply be planed by a carpenter and considered finished. If the mallet becomes front-heavy or back-heavy during use, the clay coils and slabs produced will be uneven. This indicates the mallet is improperly balanced and needs to be reprocessed and ground (though sometimes this is also related to hand technique and clay quality). 2. **Turntable**: The turntable surface must be ground smooth. The surface should be slightly higher in the center—when a ruler is placed on the surface, both ends should have a slight gap, but this must be uniform. Do not think that because we now have wheels, turntables are unnecessary. Remember that everything has advantages and disadvantages. For throwing body cylinders, trimming lid boards, and shaping large pieces, the turntable fully demonstrates its advantages. Generally, each person should have at least two turntables—one 17 centimeters and one 13 centimeters. Moreover, using a turntable makes it more convenient to inspect products during production. 3. **Paddles**: For throwing body cylinders, one needs at least three paddles—large, medium, and small. The size specifications should correspond to the varieties being produced. Additionally, some small bamboo paddles are also indispensable. 4. **Gauge Tool**: The term "gauge tool" is a traditional name we have inherited. In reality, "gauge" refers to tools for making square shapes, but for convenience we still call it a gauge tool. The gauge tool consists of several parts: the gauge handle, gauge foot, blade, and gauge foot wedge. The technical requirements for the gauge tool are as follows: 1. The gauge handle must be flat and straight; 2. The blade must form a perpendicular angle with the gauge handle; 3. The lower part of the gauge foot hole must be absolutely flat and flush with the gauge handle. The upper front part of the hole should be slightly smaller, and the rear part slightly larger, to facilitate wedging; 4. The blade tip, gauge foot, and handle end must form a straight line. [Page 552] # 5. Rotating the Compass Tool: Proper Hand Positioning and Blade Handling Specific Requirements for the Compass Tool: 1. The compass foot of any compass tool must be higher than the blade. 2. For compass tools used in making small teacups, the compass foot should be 2 millimeters higher than the blade. 3. For compass tools used in making the bodies of small teapots, the compass foot should be no more than 3 millimeters higher than the blade. 4. For two-tier compass tools used in making the bodies of small teapots, the compass foot should be 3-3.5 millimeters higher than the blade. 5. If the blade's cutting edge angles outward, the circle drawn will inevitably curve outward. 6. If the blade hooks inward, the circle drawn will inevitably curve inward. 7. If the compass foot and blade do not extend downward evenly and simultaneously, the tool will veer off course. 8. For compass tools used on full bottoms, the compass foot should generally be approximately 2-3 millimeters higher than the blade, with 2 millimeters for smaller pieces. 9. For small compass tools, the compass foot should be 3 millimeters higher than the blade. 10. The blade of the trimming compass foot should also be slightly higher than the preceding blade. > (If clay spreads on both sides when opening, this indicates the compass tool is not properly calibrated. Ideally, clay should not spread on either side. If optimal results cannot be achieved, then angle the blade slightly outward so that when turning the rim, the clay spreads outward rather than inward.) ## 5. Tools Wire tools, pointed knives, loach knives—have as many pointed knives as possible. This means making good use of wire tools and pointed knives that have already been used, and absolutely never discarding them. The loach knife should have a good shape and should not be too convex in the belly; if too convex, it becomes inconvenient to use, particularly making rim work inflexible. The knife head should be slightly rounded, not too pointed—this way it won't damage the clay surface and will cut the clay more effectively.